LAGOS, Nigeria — The traffic is there, grinding life to a halt as the
middle class pound out messages on BlackBerry mobile phones and worry
about Facebook. The heat, the sweat and the daily tragedy of unclaimed
bodies lying alongside roadways, passers-by hurrying past for fear of
someone else's misfortune becoming entangled in their own.
This
is modern life in Nigeria's largest city, Lagos, which becomes almost a
character of its own in novelist Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's new book,
"Americanah." And within its pages, one catches self-acknowledged
glimpses of the writer herself, who shot to fame with her previous love
story set during Nigeria's civil war called "Half of a Yellow Sun."
As
that book is being made into a movie, more international attention will
focus on Adichie, part of a raft of new Nigerian writers finding
acclaim after years of military-induced slumber in a nation with a rich
literary history. Yet Adichie, like her new book's heroine, finds
herself straddled between a life in the United States and one in
Nigeria, where even seemingly innocuous comments on hair care and wigs
can stir resentment.
"I'm writing about where I care about and I
deeply, deeply care about Nigeria," Adichie told The Associated Press.
"Nigeria is the country that most infuriates me and it is the country I
love the most. I think when you're emotionally invested in a place as a
storyteller, it becomes organic."
That sense of place runs
throughout "Americanah," — make sure to stress the fourth syllable, says
the daughter of a university professor and a university registrar. It's
a term people use to describe the accents carried by some of the
Nigerians now returning in droves to the country after it embraced an
uneasy democracy after years of military rule. While oil and gas money
continues to flow and other business opportunities abound, the nation's
universities now sit in shambles, graduating more unqualified students
than can be offered jobs.
That intellectual dulling has been
challenged by a host of new writers, many of whom like Adichie live
almost double lives abroad.
"She is part of the pack of novelists
who have, after what you might call the two decades of silence, who
have helped to tell Nigerian stories to the whole world again," writer
Tolu Ogunlesi said. "It was the dictatorships and all that's associated
with them. ... The '80s and '90s were dark ages of sorts for Nigeria."
It's
that period where "Americanah" finds its beginning. Though dismissing
the idea of being a "dutiful daughter of literary conventions,"
Adichie's new novel takes root in the vagaries and murmured promises of a
love story like much of her other work. It also focuses largely on the
slim percentage of Nigerians able to afford diesel generators in a
country largely without electricity and who look at the poor through the
chilled air and tinted-glass windows of luxury SUVs.
Despite
that, her writing hits a nerve with Nigerian readers who identify with
the descriptions of church worship services focused on getting foreign
visas and the nervous wives of rich men in a nation notorious for
philandering. Adichie describes herself as looking "at the world through
Nigerian eyes," but she doesn't hold back on criticizing its culture
that fosters widespread government corruption. Or what she perceives as
the excessive, neutered politeness of "political-correct language" in
the U.S.
"Nigeria wasn't set up to succeed, but the extent of its
failure is ours. It's our responsibility," she said. "This country is
full of so many intelligent people, so much energy, so much potential,
so why are we here?"
That kind of truth telling isn't exactly
welcome, even in a democratic Nigeria. Speaking Saturday night at a book
signing, Adichie drew laughter and a few nervous looks from organizers
by describing President Goodluck Jonathan as "not a bad guy, he just
seems like he's floundering and has no clue."
It also leads to
comparisons some make between Adichie and late author Chinua Achebe, who
died in March at age 82. Both come from the Igbo people of Nigeria's
southeast and Achebe's own praise of Adichie graces the cover of her new
novel in Nigeria. Adichie said the rise of new writers served as a
testament to the power of Achebe's writings and the works of others.
"I think there's just this wonderful flowering that's happening," she said.
Even
more controversial, it seems, have been Adichie's comments on natural
hair in Nigeria, where many spend huge sums of money on straight-banged
wigs and weaves known as Indian hair. An online commenter on Twitter
asserted that Adichie, whose natural hair sits in buns atop her head,
said that those wearing weaves were insecure, sparking controversy.
Adichie herself ended up responding to the criticism and gave a recent
audience advice on finding hair conditioners with no sulfates.
"It's
only black women for whom an entire industry exists which is geared
toward specifically making sure that the hair that grows on their head
looks different," she said. "I want natural black hair to be an equally
valid option, not something interesting, not something you do when
you're a jazz musician, but something you can do when you're a lawyer in
a fancy firm in New York City or if you're a politician in Abuja,"
Nigeria's capital.
That, however, still remains a challenge.
Adichie acknowledged it herself by pausing, and then adding: "My mother
doesn't like my hair like that. She is still praying."
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